Court Couture: Naomi Osaka, tennis fashion and the politics of being seen

Naomi Osaka’s French Open outfits have sparked admiration and criticism in equal measure. But while some see a fashion show, others see the court-ture as a platform for self-expression and a subversion of tradition.

When it comes to Grand Slam tennis, there is always an air of anticipation. Who will lift the trophy? Which champion will cement their legacy? And, increasingly, what statement-making outfit will capture as much attention as the tennis itself?

One tennis star who really knows how to turn a tennis court into a catwalk is Naomi Osaka. At the French Open on 26 May, the four-time Grand Slam champion staged an outfit reveal once again, striding out for her first-round match against Germany’s Laura Siegemund wearing a black corset and matching pleated, cascading skirt that skimmed over the clay. They were layered over a gold dress striped with sequins designed by Nike.

Over the course of the tournament, Osaka has displayed several iterations of the Eiffel Tower-inspired outfit, adding an oversized golden jacket, a cream version of the cascading skirt and an ivory train.

In her fourth-round match against Aryna Sabalenka, she paired her sequinned match kit with an overskirt with gold tulle. It was her parting outfit as she lost to Sabalenka 7-5 6-3.

As expected, it sparked conversation and debate, with some critics calling her court-ure problematic.

Fashion in tennis has long been entrenched and spoken about. It has been steeped in tradition – elegant, elite and governed by an explicit yet implicit rulebook of etiquette that extends from the grass courts to the grandstand, with dress codes often leaning towards the conservative.

So for many players, their fashion choices go beyond style. Some dress to make a statement, some to honour their roots and others to simply feel like the most confident version of themselves.

And it is not just tennis. Modern sport already embraces the spectacle. Formula One has paddock fashion, the NBA has tunnel walks, footballers arrive in designer collaborations.

Thus, Osaka is not turning tennis into a runway. Tennis has always been a runway, but people are noticing because Osaka is using fashion as a form of self-expression on her own terms.

She has been turning Grand Slam walk-ons into cultural moments for years.

From the oversized bows and Lolita goth influences at the 2024 US Open to crystal-studded ensembles and matching Labubu dolls in 2025, her entrances have become almost as anticipated as her matches.

Perhaps her most memorable creation arrived at this year’s Australian Open. Designed alongside coutu